Most owner/operators start out in business with used trucks because they can't afford new ones. But buying used shouldn't carry a negative image, especially today, when Class 8 trucks are built to go a million miles or more. So there's a lot of life left in a three-, four- or five-year-old road tractors.
Today, that kind of rig will cost $5,000 to $20,000 less than a couple of years ago, thanks to mobs of late-model trucks on dealers' lots. For $35,000 to $50,000 you can buy a very good tractor with a strong engine, big sleeper and decent trim. But there's a downside: If you already have a truck, it has plummeted in value. If it's financed, you could be upside down on your loan (that is, you owe more than the truck's worth). You may have to keep your truck for a while.
Meanwhile, loan rates are high - typically 15% or more - and finance companies have tightened credit requirements, making loans expensive and harder to get. Some used-truck outlets have special, even "creative" financing. But these days you need good credit to be able to shop well. Shop around for a loan, get qualified as a borrower, and then shop for the truck.
First, decide on the make, model and equipment you'd prefer, then go to lots most likely to stock them. But bear in mind that your "dream truck" - that long-and-tall "large car" with all the bells and horns - has not depreciated nearly as much as others. So it is still going to be the most expensive one there. One tip: That Petercar or K-Whopper might cost less at a non-Peterbilt or non-Kenworth dealer.
Another tip: Keep acquisition costs way down by looking for an aerodynamic model with a smallish engine. These "fleet trucks" are the most numerous and therefore the lowest priced. They will otherwise be well appointed inside because that's what companies have had to buy to keep drivers on.
Don't be overly concerned about the small, 350-or-so-horsepower engine. Its electronic controls can probably be reprogrammed to produce 400 hp or more. Ask about "uprating," or look for an aero truck with a big-block, Big Power diesel. They're out there in big numbers. Then view the aero styling as a smart way to save some serious money with today's high fuel prices.
No matter what kind of truck you pick, reliability is absolutely vital. Breakdowns cost big bucks in repairs and service calls, and, meanwhile, you can't deliver the load. Clean, shiny appearance is no guarantee of good mechanical condition, so inspect the truck carefully or get somebody who is mechanically adept to do it. Here are the things to cover:
Safety items: These are what you're supposed to look for in a pre-trip inspection - springs, engine belts, tires, brakes, air system, steering and lighting. They are also in the annual federal DOT inspection, so ask the dealer to do one. A sticker certifying it passed is a good indication that it's in sound condition, for now.
Reliability items: Check stuff that ages and wears out while the truck is still young, like brake linings, belts, hoses, radiator core, engine water pump and seals, and the alternator and starter. Dealers and manufacturers selling "reconditioned" and "refurbished" trucks replace many of these with new or remanufactured parts to boost reliability. You can ask that this be done on any truck on any lot. If not, the price should be low enough for you to have the work done.
Engine condition: A dyna-mometer test will spell out power and torque delivered to the drive wheels, which you can compare to advertised numbers. A "blow-by" test indicates condition of pistons, rings, valves and other parts. It's done by pressurizing the cylinders and measuring how much air is lost. Some dealers will send a truck to a nearby engine distributor for testing; that's good because you get an impartial evaluation.
Drivetrain condition: Clutch, transmission, driveline, axles and wheel hubs should all be looked at closely. Eyeball tires for irregular wear, which can be a sign of axle misalignment or wear in the steering parts (let a good tire tech check this for you). Drive the truck or tractor with a load to see how everything acts under stress.
Warranties: These days, most fleets like to "run under warranty." So if the truck has less than 500,000 or 600,000 miles, chances are there's some factory coverage still in force. These may cover portions of the truck, as well as engine and driveline. Ask if these warranties can be transferred to you, or if you can purchase an extended factory warranty, and at what cost.
Also ask what the dealer will pay for if something breaks, and for how long. Get everything in writing. Some dealers will cover more than they promise just to keep your good will - but not if you drive them down to the last nickel in the deal, or if you're a jerk. Ask around to gauge a dealer's reputation.
Interior: Run the heater, defroster and air conditioner to make sure they work well. Make 'em fix anything that doesn't work or you'll soon be sorry. Check all upholstery, switches, gauges and lights. Get it fixed now or it'll drive you nuts every day. And in trucking, those days can be long.
